Motorcycle Jacket Buying Guide

Leather offers superb abrasion resistance and a close fit, which is why race suits are leather, but it is heavier, slower to dry and rarely waterproof on its own. Textile jackets are the all-rounders: lighter, usually weatherproof, often with removable thermal and waterproof liners, and easier to live with for commuting and touring. Mesh jackets trade some abrasion resistance for serious airflow in hot weather.

Within textiles it is worth knowing the difference between a laminated jacket, where the waterproof membrane is bonded to the outer shell so the jacket does not soak up water, and a drop-liner jacket, where a loose waterproof layer hangs inside. Laminates stay lighter in the rain and dry faster, but cost more.

EN 17092 is the CE standard for motorcycle garments, and it grades jackets into classes. AAA is the most protective, tested for abrasion at the highest severity; AA is the all-round touring and commuting benchmark; A is the lightweight urban class. Two further classes exist that you should not rely on alone: B is abrasion-resistant fabric with no impact protectors, and C is a garment that merely holds armour in place, such as an under-mesh.

In the standard's most exposed zone, the abrasion tests correspond to sliding speeds of roughly 120 km/h for AAA, 70 km/h for AA and 45 km/h for A: a useful mental model for what the letters mean, even though no test perfectly reproduces a real crash.

The armour inside the jacket has its own standard. Shoulder and elbow protectors are rated under EN 1621-1 and back protectors under EN 1621-2, each at Level 1 or the more protective Level 2. In the lab test, Level 1 armour must keep the average force transmitted through it to 18 kN or less, while Level 2 must keep it to 9 kN or less, half the force reaching your body.

Check the back pocket before you buy: many jackets ship with a simple foam pad rather than a certified EN 1621-2 back protector. If yours does, budget for a proper Level 1 or Level 2 insert. Most jackets accept one, and it is one of the cheapest meaningful safety upgrades you can make.

Armour only works where it sits, so fit is a safety feature. The jacket should be snug enough that the shoulder and elbow armour stays located when you twist and reach, cut for a riding position rather than standing straight, with sleeves that cover your wrists on the bars.

If you ride in winter, check the fit with a mid-layer underneath. A connection zip that mates with your trousers keeps the jacket from riding up in a slide and stops the draught at your lower back, worth having if your trousers support it.

Day-to-day usefulness comes from the details:

• Removable thermal and waterproof liners: one jacket across three seasons.
• Real venting: chest and exhaust vents you can open with gloves on.
• Reflective panels or hi-viz options for dark commutes.
• Adjusters at the waist, arms and cuffs to keep armour snug as layers change.
• Quality zips and a storm flap: cheap zips are where budget jackets leak.
• Airbag compatibility if you plan to add one: some jackets are cut to fit over or integrate with airbag vests.

Certified textile jackets start around £100 to £200, the mid-market runs to about £400, and laminated touring jackets and premium leather run higher still. Set your floor at a genuine EN 17092 class AA rating with Level 1 armour and a real back protector, then spend the rest of the budget on the weatherproofing and comfort your riding needs.

Feed leather occasionally with a proper leather conditioner and let it dry naturally after rain. Reproof textile shells once water stops beading on them, and always remove the armour before washing a textile jacket. Cared for, a good jacket outlasts several bikes.